Buyer’s Guide to Vintages April 13th Release
Ontario Highlights, The Okanagan Freeze, Oregon Pinot Re-Visited
By David Lawrason with notes from Sara d’Amato, Megha Jandhyala and Michael Godel
So far, the spring of 2024 has been a weather potpourri, as spring is supposed to be in Ontario. It feels comfortably normal. Vintages April 13 magazine takes on this toothsome topic under the banner of perfect pairings with the various spring dining scenarios. But I want to move right along with items reflecting what’s more importantly going on right now regarding the heights being achieved by Ontario wine, and the impact of the Okanagan freeze in B.C. Also, please note that Michael has filed a comprehensive report on newly released crop of nebbiolo-based wines from Barolo and Barbaresco in Piedmont.
First, still tethered to Vintages April 13 release, Hidden Bench Estate Winery is featured with four wines, being re-released and offered at somewhat reduced prices until April 28. Hidden Bench took Winery of the Year honours at the 2023 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada. This was a huge win for owner Harald Thiel and his talented team, with a slew of platinum, gold and silver medals for his wines from organically farmed, single vineyards on Beamsville Bench that are now producing in their prime, many over 30 years of age. The four featured wines are estate wines, mostly from younger plantings on the 32-hectare site. They are clarion examples of the bright style and excellent quality now taking hold within Niagara’s core varieties — chardonnay, riesling, pinot noir, gamay and cabernet franc (and blends thereof).
That same message was front and centre last week at the opening of The Grapes for Humanity Canada auction that raises funds for climate action causes like Tree Canada, The Halo Trust and Nature Conservancy Canada. Nineteen Ontario winemakers collaborated to create seven “For the Heart” wines that are on auction in mixed and whole cases until April 22 by Waddington’s among dozens of international collectors’ items.
Like the Hidden Bench wines, the seven For the Heart wines are singularly and historically important expressions of their varietals. I tasted all and draw your attention to the For the Heart 2023 Gamay created by Eliza Mazzi of Malivoire, Jeff Moote of Divergence and Jessica Solnaki of Southbrook, as well as the Pinot Noir 2022 by Kelly Mason and Thomas Bachelder. The auction also features magnums of previous vintages of superb For the Heart Chardonnay and Pinot Noir 2021, 2020, 2019, with fruit from several wineries blended and crafted by Thomas Bachelder. There are also two magnums of B.C. White and Red up for sale. It is an impressive tableau.
The Okanagan Freeze
I was in Kelowna for three days earlier this month, where I met with a handful of winemakers in the north Okanagan and discussed the impacts of the disastrous January 20 freeze out that has all but wiped out the 2024 vintage. The next days of bud break will reveal how much vineyard has suffered permanent damage, which will require replanting and set those vineyards back years. Much of the impact is still to be decided — on a site-by-site basis — but here is what is happening already.
Dozens of wineries are said to be up for sale — I don’t have factual numbers. Some vineyards are already being ripped out, notably sites previously affected by the freezes that beset the region before the 2023 and 2002 vintages. Most however are in wait and see mode.
Wine brokers from the U.S. and Ontario are calling on B.C. wineries offering to sell them fruit and wine (next-door Washington is reported to have a large wine surplus). For now, importation can only be done by the larger B.C. wineries with commercial licenses, but land-based wineries are preparing to apply for commercial licenses and hope government bureaucracy will move expeditiously to grant them this, if only on a temporary basis.
Some fear that using imported wine will dilute, or even eventually drown the identity of B.C. wine, and confuse consumers en route. So, there is much debate about what is essentially a labelling issue. Obviously, the B.C. VQA designation should disappear from these labels but, to me, that is not enough visual guidance for consumers. A new “certification of origin” plan has been developed that is being discussed by the powers that be as we speak. Nothing is yet decided but the authorities need to act PDQ. Meanwhile, those who are, or envision, replanting, are thinking about new varieties, clones and locations that will provide more climate surety, and hoping they can find the vine material required.
I will continue to report on this situation, hopefully with more clarity by the time the National Wine Awards roll around in June. Meantime, wine stocks are plentiful in the Okanagan this year following the bumper, very good 2022 vintage, and a drop in sales last year thanks to a tourism ban during forest fire season. The Okanagan is open for business as usual this summer and needs our support to brace for the future.
Oregon Re-Visited
I had stopped in Kelowna en route home from five days in the Willamette Valley of Oregon, where I was plotting a tour next April for a group donating to a Canada’s Great Kitchen Party fundraiser. I had not been in Oregon for at least 15 years, and the scope of the industry was mind-boggling, with over 900 wineries therein (more than in all of Canada). The majority are making pinot noir in the Willamette Valley southwest of Portland, which is now vying with Central Otago in New Zealand as top new world pinot hot spot. I tasted about 50 pinots while in Oregon then returned home to keep on going at the Oregon and Washington State Trade Tasting in Toronto April 8.
The Oregon pinot style is a bit more ripe — darker fruit, lower acid and softer texture — than Burgundy or Canadian pinots. But they are not as ripe and sweet-edged as California versions, which Oregonians are quick to point out. And they are very focused on terroir-driven samples based on the soils and aspects within the Willamette’s 12 sub-appellations. So little Oregon wine is available in Ontario that I have not really been paying attention over the years, but I am now recognizing the tension and depth of the cooler-climate character of Eola-Amity Hills, the strawberry- cherry softness and openness of the classic volcanic red-soiled Dundee Hills, and the darker fruit and elegance of the wines from Yamhill-Carlton, Ribbon Ridge and the Chehalem Mountains.
I wish more Oregon pinots were available at Vintages to point you to specific examples. But I can list very good producers who are represented in Ontario and let you check out their agents’ consignment and perhaps their bottle shop offerings: Domain Drouhin (Philippe Dandurand), Archery Summit (Lifford), Cristom (Profile), Solena and Hyland (Nicolas Pearce), Adelsheim (Mark Anthony), Bledsoe McDaniels (Halpern), Sokol Blosser (Noble Estates) and Lingua Franca (Arterra). The very good, representative Westmount 2021 Pinot Noir is upcoming on Vintages April 27 release.
Picks from the April 13 Releases
So now on to our picks from the April 13 release, with a personal nod to some lovely, aromatic, spring-like whites. Wines are arranged in ascending price order.
Garzón Pinot Rosé De Corte 2023, Uruguay, World
$19.95, Mark Anthony Group
Megha Jandhyala – Those looking to explore a new corner of the world should try this well-made, delicious rosé from Uruguay. A blend of pinot noir, merlot, and marselan, it is equal parts fruity and delightfully savoury, with a sense of freshness and purity that is very becoming. It should pair well with sushi, especially spicy maki rolls.
…
There are 17 other Vintages Release recommendations this week that are currently only available to our premium members. This complete article will be free and visible to all members 30 days after publication. We invite you to subscribe today to unlock our top picks and other Premium benefits
Please take a moment to understand why we charge for this service.
“For the cost of a good bottle of wine we’ll help you discover hundreds of great ones.”
And that’s a wrap for this edition. John returns in two weeks with our picks from Vintages April 27 release, with its California feature on Paso Robles. And a reminder that the California Wine Fair rolls into the Carlu in Toronto on April 22.
David Lawrason
VP of Wine
Use these quick links for access to all of our Top Picks in the New Release. Non-Premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
Lawrason’s Take
Megha’s Picks
Michael’s Mix
Sara’s Selections
Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram for the latest WineAlign recommendations, tips and other interesting wine information.