Buyer’s Guide to Vintages November 2nd Release

John Szabo’s Vintages Preview November 2: Premium (Greatest Hits?) California, and The Best From Campania Felix

By John Szabo MS, with notes from Sara d’Amato, David Lawrason, and Michael Godel

This week Vintages brings us a release with a “Premium California” theme, though the LCBO’s selection could well have been named “California’s Greatest Hits.” Those looking for familiar faces will be happy in this crowd: Duckhorn, J. Lohr, Caymus, Rombauer, and others who make regular appearances in Ontario are back again. Those looking for exciting new premium wines from the Golden State, or at least ones that are less ubiquitous, will have to keep looking.

And the WineAlign Crü has little to report on the theme. These are not the sort of wines that importers make available for critics to taste. They have nothing to gain, only to lose, by exposing them to critique. Their popularity is already well established, and a low score would be damaging, while a high score probably won’t improve sales by much. As for purchasers of high-end fashion accessories, brand name and a commanding price often matter more than quality. When’s the last time you read a review of a leather Hermès handbag? (I’m told they’re still literally hand-crafted in tiny quantities with inscrutable craftmanship, which is more than I can say for many luxury, high-priced wines.)

Aside from a cursory look at a few of the wines during a walk-around trade tasting of Napa Valley wines last month that David and I attended, which is not the right environment to write a full, considered review, we tasted only two of the 12 wines included in the latest Vintages feature at WineAlign headquarters: Gary Farrell’s excellent Russian River Selection Pinot Noir ($72.95), which I found to be a classically styled and highly polished example, and Far Niente’s Napa Valley Chardonnay ($99.95), about which Michael enthuses over the “ripe layers [of fruit], some of them exotic to tropical.”

Another, Groth’s 2020 Oakville Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($128.95), was not yet available to be sent to the office at the time of writing, but I can report from my quick sip at the Napa tasting that it is also excellent, essentially the Reserve Cabernet declassified to the estate bottling at about one-third the price (in this wildfire-ravaged Napa vintage but entirely free of smoke taint).

The importers for the rest of the wines declined to send samples. Outside of California, we found triple alignment on a new virtual label from the Oppenlaender family who have farmed in St Davids in Niagara for 40 years. David, Sara and Michael all included the Liebling Riesling 2022 St. David’s Bench in their picks. One dollar from the sale of each bottle will be donated to the Alzheimer Society of Niagara Region. A Chilean syrah also scores triple alignment, the Falernia Titón Syrah from the Elquí Valley. Titón was one of the first vineyards to be planted in this relatively newly discovered terroir in the far north of Chile, and it is a veritable tour de force — not for drinkers of meek wines. Garnering double alignment for the Crü are wines from Armenia, Sicily and Burgundy, along with a superior Prosecco from Valdobbiadene and a Niagara riesling.

Campania Stories

Where I do have much to report is on the excellent wines of Campania, a region of singular beauty in the southern Italian peninsula. It includes the Phlegraean Islands, Ischia, Procida, Vivara and Nisida, and the jewel, Capri, under its administrative umbrella. With nearly six million inhabitants, it is Italy’s third most populous region, and, as anyone who has travelled in its capital city of Naples would know, the most densely populated in the country. Abundant sunshine, dramatic scenery, a rich tradition of gastronomy and the south’s deepest repertoire of fine wines conspire to make the region a joyful place. In fact, the Romans referred to it as Campania Felix, or “happy country.”

Campania is surely among the most dynamic of Italy’s 20 regions when it comes to the breadth of its wine offer, featuring an enviable ampelographic richness in a country celebrated for its varietal diversity. Several varieties are even able to trace their lineage directly back to the vinous residues discovered in Pompeii, with over 2,000 years of history in the region.

“Twenty years ago, nobody talked about Campania wines, just about a handful of historic producers like Mastroberardino, Villa Matilde, Ocone, Grotta del Sole, perhaps a dozen or so names,” Neapolitan winegrower Salvatore Martusciello reflects. “Now it’s a serious category, with more than 500 commercial wineries.”

I’ve been several times to Campania, most recently in May 2024 for the annual release of new vintages called Campania Stories, a well-organized event that provided the perfect opportunity to get caught up on the rapidly changing scene. It was one of the most enjoyable and satisfying visits I’ve made in the last few years of travel, and the quality and diversity of wines exceeded all expectations. And the region is still fermenting, it seems, with lots of crazy ideas bubbling over and continual change notable everywhere. Producers make new additions to their ranges, apply new trials and techniques, and revisit ancient ones with every passing vintage.

Click below for all the news, including a primer on the most important native varieties of Campania and a comprehensive buyer’s guide of the best from Naples and beyond from well over 300 wines tasted in May of this year.

John Szabo’s Campania Stories 2024

Here are our picks from the November 2nd release, arranged in ascending price order.

Buyer’s Guide November 2: Sparkling and White Wines

Relvas Herdade De São Miguel Colheita Seleccionada White 2022, Alentejo, Portugal
$15.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
David Lawrason – This bright exotic and spicy white is a blend of four varieties (including viognier) in the Alentejo region southeast of Lisbon. It is quite tropical, yet spicy (4 months in oak) and herbal with good weight and richness. Lots here for the money.

Liebling Riesling 2022, Ontario, Canada
$22.00, MARYNISSEN ESTATES LIMITED
David Lawrason This is a new virtual label from Oppenlaender family who have farmed in St. David’s for 40 years. The wines are made at Marynissen. This is a ripe, rich, barely off-dry riesling with a good sense of purity. The weight and style are mindful of Alsace.
Sara d’Amato – A new wine from an experienced winegrowing family, farmed on St. David’s Bench by the Oppenlaenders and made at Marynissen winery, this collab cracker of a riesling is a delightful discovery made even sweeter by its price.
Michael Godel – Good collaboration here and Marynissen seems poised to join the highest of Ontario riesling ranks. One dollar from the sale of each bottle is donated to the Alzheimer Society of Niagara Region.

Andreola Dirupo Brut Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, Veneto, Italy
$24.95, Kylix Wines
John Szabo – A superior example of prosecco from the hilly Valdobbiadene zone, vastly better suited to quality wine production than the flat plains of the Veneto where basic Prosecco DOC is produced. The nose is redolent of fresh orchard fruit, green apples, meadow flowers and cherry blossoms, while the palate is essentially dry and crisp, well-balanced and even lightly stony — the way we like it.
David Lawrason – Prosecco has never been high of my list of favourite wine styles. Rarely do they excite, but here’s one that does. Very nicely made, with generous, pure yellow pear/mirabel plum, gentle hay and wildflower aromas. Almost creamy with a hint of sweetness, and some chalky minerality on the finish.

Domaine Bègue Mathiot Vaillons Chablis 1er Cru 2022, Burgundy, France
$39.95, Mondo Vino
Sara d’Amato – A carefully crafted Premier Cru Chablis from Vaillons, meaning “little valley” when, in fact, it is the largest of the collective Premier Crus in Chablis with 129 hectares of vineyard. From a balanced vintage with notable freshness and moderate alcohol, this toasty find features a pleasant dichotomy of sweetly ripened citrus fruit and savory verve.

Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2021, Ontario, Canada
$44.95, Stratus Vineyards
John Szabo – Not an easy vintage in Niagara, but an exceptional one for Baker’s Picone Vineyard riesling. It has exceptional density and concentration on a light, 10.8% alcohol frame — the magic of the variety and the place. Don’t be fooled by the apparent levity — the flavour density is real and serious.
Sara d’Amato – This riesling rarely disappoints, expressing an impressive depth of flavour, intensity and length from a high-pedigree site. Nervy and chalky with petrol setting in as a result of bottle age. Relatively dry, nicely balanced with a lofty mouthfeel and an expansive flavour profile. No need to wait but there is surely more development to come from this well-structured riesling.

Domaine Sève Terroir Pouilly Fuissé 2022, Burgundy, France
$47.95, The Case For Wine
David Lawrason What a lovely, classy expression of chardonnay! The hot vintage has certainly imbued enough ripeness and richness, yet the limestone-laced soils of this fine appellation hold it together seamlessly. Expect almost tropical fruit, satiny texture and excellent length.
Michael Godel – This reeks of terroir. Not fruit, nor wood, but just the stone and clay beneath a grower’s and maker’s feet. A flinty, linear, vertical and sharply dressed (and also seasoned) Pouilly-Fruissé. Very real and worth the price.

Centinari Brut Franciacorta, Lombardy, Italy
$49.95, Majestic Wine Cellars
Michael Godel – A rare and welcoming solo artist, a.k.a Blanc de Blanc from chardonnay, that delivers a regional mix of sun-accumulated ripeness juxtaposed against early-picked sharp acidity.

Far Niente Chardonnay 2022, California, USA
$99.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Michael Godel – Important vineyards in Coombsville are the source and they have a big say in what happens with this top-end chardonnay. Plenty of ripe layers, some of them exotic to tropical but also a reductive element that superlatively balances the richness of golden sunshine cumulate fruit. So much wine here. Mon dieu.

Buyer’s Guide November 2: Red Wines

Her Shiraz 2022, Western Cape, South Africa
$14.95, CHANILE VINES
Sara d’Amato – Both a good value and a great cause, HER shiraz is a product of a team of dynamic black women in South Africa of which 2% of profits are invested in the HER Wine Collection Bursary for aspirant young people in the Cape Winelands. At under $15 there is a great deal on offer including enticing peppery aromas and richly layered black currant fruit juxtaposed by mouthwatering freshness.

Karas Red 2022, Armenia
$22.95, KEVORK KATAROYAN
John Szabo – From the Armenian Argentinian family that also brings us Bodegas Fin del Mundo in Patagonia, Tierras de Armenia’s Karas red blend from the Ararat “Valley” at close to 1000 metres above sea level, is a wine of exceptional density and concentration at the price. There’s so much going on here for $23.
Sara d’Amato – From Armenia’s ancient winegrowing region in the valley of Mount Ararat, the location of Noah’s washed-up ark, as the story goes, this blend of syrah, malbec and cabernet franc grown in volcanic terroir is a value not to be missed. With stylish swagger, perfectly ripened tannins, succulent acids, and drink-now attitude, this conversation starter is a sure-fire hit.

Falernia Titon Vineyard Syrah Reserva 2019, Elquí Valley, Chile
$22.95, Profile Wine Group (Du Chasse)
John Szabo Titón was one of the first vineyards to be planted in this relatively newly discovered terroir in the far north of Chile, where the soils are more stones than dirt. It looks shockingly like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but the wine is far more Northern Rhône in style — Côte Rôtie or Hermitage — with its distinctively spicy and smoky, scorched earth and black pepper, cold cream and fresh road tar — inflected aromas and flavours. There’s an extreme amount of character on offer, and as such, a polarizing style that won’t appeal to everyone. But those to whom it does will want to buy it by the case.
Michael Godel – Feels like a cooler, fresher and therefore more restrained vintage, and so red fruit swells all the way through. Still the heartbeat of iron in wine and the sanguine flow welling with minerals help to consistently define the wine. This really works.
David Lawrason From an Andean Valley in the most northerly region of Chile comes a glossy, rich and smooth syrah with all kinds of charcuterie, black pepper, warm licorice, black olive and cherry pie fruit. It is very smooth, intense and a tad sweet (which may not appeal to all) but it works for this syrah lover.

Planeta Plumbago Nero D’avola 2021, Sicily, Italy
$24.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
David Lawrason There is good vitality and purity here. Nicely lifted blackcurrant and cran-cherry fruit is quite exotic. There are also pretty, fresh greens and spice. It is fairly dense yet juicy yet juicy with some slightly green tannin.
John Szabo – Classically styled, savoury-earthy-spicy nero from Planeta’s Menfi estate in the southwest of Sicily, a paradigm of the variety for Sicily. Lots of pleasure here.

Stratus Gamay 2022, Ontario, Canada
$32.20, Stratus Vineyards
Sara d’Amato – Inviting and notably peppery, this stylishly reductive gamay shines brightly with a bit of air. Features bramble and a mix of dark and fresh red berry fruit. A great deal of energy and substance on offer with lightly grippy tannins and impressive length.

Maison Chanzy Le Bois Cassien Monopole Mercurey 2022, Burgundy, France
$44.95, Tastevin Selections
David Lawrason What a beauty! So refined, delicate yet well structured. The nose is lovely, generous weave of bright cherry fruit, peony, gentle coniferous, herbs and toast. It is light to medium bodied with very well balanced and integrated. Effortless.

Two Sisters Eleventh Post 2018, Ontario, Canada
$48.00, TWO SISTERS VINEYARDS
Sara d’Amato – Since last I tasted this Bordeaux-style blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and cabernet franc that spent 30 months in French oak barriques, it has mellowed considerably, bringing forth bottle-aged complexity while still retaining its notable length. Features a luxurious mouthfeel with plentiful plum and black fruit. A substantial wine but not heavy in alcohol or warmth.

Château Tour Des Termes 2018, Bordeaux, France
$61.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
John Szabo – An exceptionally ripe and concentrated 2018 St. Estèphe, showing very well at the moment in such an appealing style. Length is excellent. A premium red Bordeaux drinking well now, but no hurry.

Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2023, Walker Bay, South Africa
$69.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Sara d’Amato – Albeit a splurge, this juicy-tart pinot exhibits just enough restraint to keep it from bursting forth with botanicals, dried herbs, ripe red cherries and spice. Structured like a Pommard but with the ethereal brightness and salinity of Hemel-en-Aarde.

Gary Farrell Russian River Selection Pinot Noir 2021, California, USA
$72.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Michael Godel – Impeccable focus and extreme clarity, generous yes but restrained, open-knit and welcoming. From strength to strength goes this Sonoma County estate with each vintage offering new and agile facets on a quantified frame of classic styling.

That’s all for this report, see you ’round the next bottle.

John Szabo, MS

Use these quick links for access to all of our November 2nd Top Picks in the New Release. Non-Premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
Lawrason’s Take – November 2nd
Michael’s Mix – November 2nd
Sara’s Selections – November 2nd
Szabo’s Smart Buys – November 2nd

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