Buyer’s Guide to Vintages December 14th Release
Happy HST Holiday
By David Lawrason, with notes from John Szabo, Michael Godel, Sara d’Amato and Megha Jandhyala
Well, ho, ho, ho! The 13% HST/GST tax on wine, beer and ciders has been suspended until February 15. You can riff all you want about the political motivations behind the HST holiday, but I’ll take the discount. As will the wine trade, which is seeing declining sales not just in Ontario, but across Canada and globally. I am not going to throw out months-old figures to support this. It is simply out there — heard over many conversations with wine producers in recent weeks. Nor do I want to try to soberly untangle the web of socio-cultural-lifestyle and economic reasons why it is happening. Your own educated analysis is probably very close to the truth.
But it’s Christmas, so let’s focus on giving, and more good news for Ontario consumers who collect Aeroplan points. The LCBO is offering 1000 points on 12-bottle purchases on New Release Collection and Cellar Collection wines, but just until December 21 — so get busy. Piled atop the HST break, we are talking decent economic considerations and a reason to splurge.
The December 14 release is themed on sparkling wines. Having just published John Szabo’s annual Fizz Guide we were a little gassed after tasting more than 150 bubblies. But there are some sparklers mentioned below worth your consideration. I note the debut of Palmer Reserve Brut Champagne, and the continual release of interesting wines from Niagara, including Hidden Bench’s fantastic 2017 Brut Natur and a pair from Kew Vineyards.
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In every release certain themes present themselves unexpectedly. Who knew before sitting down to taste 60 wines on this release that I would be contemplating South American cabernet franc. As it happens, there are two very good francs from Chile and Argentina, plus a Mendoza red that blends malbec and cab franc. Franc has become more prominent as a way to lighten up the heavier dense reds of Argentina in particular. There is also an excellent Chateau Haut-Simard Saint-Émilion Bordeaux that is 60% cabernet franc
I also draw attention to wines from Sicily, having just returned from a short trip to Mount Etna and the historic east coast jewel, Siracusa (Syracuse). There is a good value Etna Rosso from Torre Mora on the release, and I refer you to the excellent wines of Tornatore that are also on the shelf from previous releases. But fans of this exciting region need to follow the link to hardworking Michael Godel’s opus “Etna Days are Here to Stay.” I am so impressed with its depth and detail. Sara and John have identified two other Sicilian must-buys on this release.
One other trend is the notable contingent of less expensive reds from Eastern Europe and the Middle East, including Romania, Bulgaria, Armenia, Greece (of course) and three from Lebanon. I have noted this trend all year, with mixed results, but a general improvement in quality from this broad area.
So onward, to our picks from this release, arranged in ascending price order with style groups.
Buyer’s Guide December 14: Sparkling Wines
Kew Blanc De Noirs 2020, Ontario, Canada
$28.70, Arterra Wines Canada
Sara d’Amato – A well-priced local fizz to stock up on for the holidays. Aged 2 years on lees, with a rich dosage, this lofty wine features some pinot-packed power and gentle maturity. A lightly creamy mousse, with a balanced palate and substantial mouthfeel make for a well-rounded crowd-pleaser.
Hidden Bench Natur Zero Dosage 2017, Ontario, Canada
$41.10, Mark Anthony Group
David Lawrason – One of my favourite sparkling wines of Niagara, this is 57% pinot noir, 43% chardonnay, aged an incredible six years on lees. Which accounts for its golden colour and lovely complex nose of hazelnut, peanut brittle, honey and dried fruit. It is light, lean yet elegant with very impressive flavour intensity and length.
Megha Jandhyala – This strikingly golden, bone-dry sparkling wine from Hidden Bench will add a little glamour and charm to your New Year’s Eve celebration. It is rich and steely, layered with resonant tones of honey-drizzled croissants, strawberry and cherry preserve, caramelized lemons, dried apples, and toasted hazelnuts. In short, it is delicious and captivating! I would pair it with buttery lobster or a selection of sharp cheeses, given its concentration and brightness.
Palmer Brut Reserve Champagne, Champagne, France
$74.80, Arterra Wines Canada
David Lawrason – New to me, this is a classy, complex and complete champagne to serve at any festive reception or dinner party. Expect intense, dried apple/pear, honey, brioche and dried onion crisps. It is dry, brisk, firm and very well balanced.
Buyer’s Guide December 14: White Wines
Casal De Ventozela Loureiro Vinho Verde 2022, Vinho Verde, Portugal
$13.90, Le Sommelier Inc.
Megha Jandhyala – At under $15 (without HST) this bright and refreshing Vinho Verde is very affordably priced. I recommend stocking your fridge with several bottles of it, to serve with all kinds of light seafood, especially tuna and salmon tartare or crudo.
David Lawrason – This is a light, bright yet complex and detailed single variety Vinho Verde with a fine nose of greengage plum, lime, spice and fresh herbs. With a touch of salinity. It has excellent flavour intensity and depth. A stand in for sparkling wine for those who don’t like bubbles (yes, they do exist).
Feudo Maccari Olli Grillo 2023, Sicily, Italy
$14.70, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Sara d’Amato – A textbook grillo — a gem of Sicily that was better known as the backbone of Marsala but with reduced yields produces fleshy and easy-drinking whites of great value. A little more complex than the norm, herein you can find notes of elderflower, starfruit, yellow apple, white peach, toasted macadamia, and a hint of ginger atop lively acids.
John Szabo – Lovely aromatics lead on this honest and authentic grillo from Noto, a sapid and saline, juicy and saliva-inducing Sicilian white. The flavour intensity outshines many in the price category.
Trimbach Riesling 2022, Alsace, France
$26.10, Woodman Wines & Spirits
Megha Jandhyala – Taut yet fleshy and rounded, Trimbach’s 2022 riesling is full of flavour and character, including notes of honeysuckle, crunchy orchard fruit, and juicy lemons. Bright acidity balances a hint of sweetness, making this wine a good choice to pair with spice-infused, tart foods like South Asian or Thai curries.
Bründlmayer Terrassen Riesling 2023, Kamptal, Austria
$30.40, Family Wine Merchants
Michael Godel – Austria does this style better than Germany (sorry, but it’s true) because at 13 percent alcohol the sugars are minimal and still the wine exhibits flesh, body, texture and character. Complex in many ways for a riesling with so many possibilities.
David Lawrason – This is a brilliant, pristine and downright delicious riesling from a leading producer. Seamless integration of lemon, honeysuckle, just-ripe apricot and subtle petrol aromas. It is medium weight, taut yet rich, with superb acidity and minerality.
Megha Jandhyala – This is a gorgeous Austrian riesling, rich with notes of orchard, stone, and citrus fruit. Clean, radiant, and focused, it showcases impeccable balance between opulence and racy acidity. I really like the long, citrus-infused finish.
Sara d’Amato – If you have a fan of dry riesling on your list, look no further, this premium find is racy with just a little youthful spritz, mineral and ginger. Clean, juicy, and features a great deal of tension and purity. Tantalizing, not exceptionally concentrated but, given time, this should unwind favourably.
Domaines Schlumberger Kessler Gewurztraminer 2021, Alsace, France
$33.00, Vinexx
Megha Jandhyala – This is a decadently delicious grand cru gewürztraminer, with dulcet tones of honeysuckle, jasmine, peach reduction, and apricot flavours that remind me of khubhani ka meetha (an apricot compôte-like dessert from Hyderabad, my hometown in India). Concentrated and classic, it would pair wonderfully with rich, creamy, sharp cheeses served as a dessert course.
Staete Landt Duchess Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Marlborough, New Zealand
$27.80, Lifford Wine & Spirits (Select Wine Merchants)
David Lawrason – Not your average NZ SB! From an earnest biodynamic producer this a complex, intense sauvignon roiling in tropical fruit, mint, ginger and spice (from barrel fermentation). It is full bodied, creamy and very rich. The length is excellent to outstanding.
Michael Godel – Fermented in wood and only its own indigenous yeasts used to set things in motion. Flavours are full, mouthfeel substantial and length guaranteed. All of this because of quality, purity and honesty.
Inama I Palchi Grande Cuvée Foscarino Soave Classico 2023 Veneto, Italy
$79.95, ROY + CO. SELECTIONS INC.
John Szabo – A relatively new wine to the Inama portfolio, here just the 4th edition, “I Palchi” refers to a series of wide terraces lined with pergolas of old garganega vines on Monte Foscarino, one of the most historic crus in the region with ideal exposure and heavily basalt-laced soils. Since 2019, Inama has made a special selection of outstanding grapes available for this cuvée, its impeccable balance a testament to old vines and pergola training. A truly exceptional Soave Classico, one I’d like to see at full maturity, after about 2028 or so.
Buyer’s Guide December 14: Red Wines
Château Hyot 2020, Bordeaux, France
$13.90, Majestic Wine Cellars
David Lawrason – In your cart this is a silly bargain at HST-less $13.90. From one of my favourite lesser-known Bordeaux regions, it is a maturing, quaffing yet semi-serious merlot-based red. It does not have the depth to warrant Wine Enthusiast’s enthusiastic 92 points, but it is balanced, fresh and quite delicious.
Chateau Ksara Reserve Du Couvent 2022, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
$17.40, TOCADE
Sara d’Amato – The entry level blend based on syrah and cabernet from the well-established Bekaa Valley winery of Château Ksara makes a great host gift for adventurous wine friends or simply as an engaging weeknight sipper. With dusty dried herbs, and semi-firm tannins, this richly fruited, clean red with delicate wood spice won’t take you too far out of your comfort zone while allowing you to delve beyond familiar wine regions.
Pérez Cruz Limited Edition Cabernet Franc 2022, Maipo Valley, Chile
$17.40, Charton Hobbs
David Lawrason – If you are not a fan of green in your red, take a pass. But I am a fan, and this delivers thyme/oregano and evergreen centred by a strong core of almost candied raspberry fruit, with etchings of minerality and graphite. It is quite full, soft and loaded with flavour. Roast lamb and vegetarian dishes crossed my mind.
Viñalba Reserva Malbec/Touriga Nacional 2022, Mendoza, Argentina
$17.40, Glencairn Wine Merchants
Megha Jandhyala – This ripe, juicy blend of malbec and touriga nacional from the Uco Valley promises to be an uncommon and well-priced addition to your holiday bar. Fruit, pepper, and flowers lead here, joined by just a hint of meat and smoke, making this red a great choice to pair with roasted or barbecued foods.
Lawson’s Dry Hills Inviniti Pinot Noir 2022, Marlborough, New Zealand
$18.20, The Independent Wine Company
John Szabo – This is a bright and fruity, clean and fresh pinot from Marlborough. I like the purity and straightforwardness, a direct charge of raspberries and strawberries with no hindrance from wood. In the end, delicious, and certified carbon zero as a bonus. Chill, crack and go.
Reyneke Organic Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Western Cape, South Africa
$21.95, Univins (Ontario)
David Lawrason – Reyneke is one of the most earnest, reliable and accomplished organic producers of South Africa, or anywhere for that matter. I was shocked to see this at Vintages at this price (under $20 minus HST). It is not flashy or deep, but it has such admirable, solid, structure, that will make you want to drink it glass after glass. Most like Côtes du Rhône from France, but with more grip.
Tasca D’almerita Regaleali Lamùri 2020, Sicily, Italy
$21.20, VIN PASSION (The Case For Wine)
John Szabo – A vicarious transport to the Sicilian countryside, Tasca’s classic Lamùri nero d’Avola unveils a raft of savoury wild herbs and botanicals, orange peel and earth, dusty limestone, dark, leathery fruit and more in a textbook expression. Drink or hold until the end of the decade.
Sara d’Amato – A succulent, sapid and mineral-rich nero d’avola grown at higher hillside elevations between 450 and 700 meters above sea level. Crunchy, salty and red-fruited with notes of strawberry jam, white pepper and considerable freshness that stands out due to minimal oak aging, largely in second- and third-fill barrels. Effortlessly drinkable.
Domaine Du Crêt D’oeillat Vieilles Vignes Régnié 2020, Beaujolais, France
$21.70, Terra Firma Brands
John Szabo – Regnié is probably one of the least-known and heralded of the 10 Beaujolais crus, but this is clearly something special, from a granite-rich parcel yielding wines of depth and power that could redefine and reposition this cru. Amazingly, 2020 is the first vintage from this renovated domain, but already it’s reaching for the very top levels.
Leeuwin Siblings Shiraz 2022, Western Australia, Australia
$29.50, Terra Firma Brands
Michael Godel – High acid, medium body and strikingly energetic. There can be little reason to pass this by, ignore its honesty and purity, skip past the high quality and level of merit it supplies.
Sara d’Amato – Spicy and voluptuous, this juicy shiraz is ready to drink despite its youthful disposition. Clean and carefully crafted with lightly grippy tannins and pleasant degree of acidity. Transparent and representative with eye-catching packaging.
La Massa 2020, Tuscany, Italy
$35.60, Terra Firma Brands
Michael Godel – The work of Giampaolo Motta, rebel of Panzano, with vineyards in the famous Conca d’Oro. A freshness quite opposite to Panzano’s normally bigger and deeper hued sangiovese from 2020.
Sara d’Amato – A Tuscan IGT with plenty of class, this peppery blend includes 60% sangiovese with supporting roles played by merlot, cabernet sauvignon and alicante. A smart value, this substantial red is given levity by gentle acidity and a lick of minerality.
John Szabo – Sangiovese meets merlot and cabernet sauvignon grown together in Panzano’s Conca d’Oro, an amphitheatre-shaped bowl that has produced prized wines for centuries in the heart of Chianti Classico. In the world of premium wines, this is very fairly priced to be sure, a sharp value, in fact. Best 2026–36.
Isole E Olena Chianti Classico 2021, Tuscany, Italy
$40.00, Halpern Enterprises
Michael Godel – The last blended Annata of Paolo de Marchi’s four-and-a-half decade tenure at Isole e Olena. This will always be his wine, in a figurative sense, the last and most valuable work of his life as an Olena artist.
Domaine Joannet Bourgogne Hautes Côtes De Nuits 2022, Burgundy, France
$37.40, Profile Wine Group (Barrique)
David Lawrason – This is a highly energized and fragrant pinot noir that could easily be from a more famous appellation like Nuits Saint Georges. The fruit is very much Cotes de Nuits with blackcurrant, almost juniper herbality and plenty of barrel toast. It is medium weight, very firm but not austere, with mouth-watering acidity, minerality and firm tannin. Cellar stock.
Château Haut Simard 2018, Bordeaux, France
$49.50, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Michael Godel – Terrific expression and representation of Saint-Émilion Grand Cru with ripe fruit, an active pulse, acidity aligned and structural set-up to see a low, slow and engaging advance towards maturity.
Megha Jandhyala – Château Haut Simard’s 2018 vintage will not disappoint fans of classic, ageing right-bank Bordeaux. Mossy, savoury, and floral, with both ripe and dried fruit notes, and subtle spice, this is a layered, intricately integrated blend that can be enjoyed now if it is decanted first. It will also last in one’s cellar until the close of the decade.
Buyer’s Guide December 14: Sweet Wines
Domaine Bellavista 20 Ans D Age Ambres Rivesaltes 1999, France
$20.00, Appellation Wines
John Szabo – Fully rancio, salted caramel, terrifically complex Rivesaltes here, amber in colour as advertised, with serious complexity. Sweet but not cloying, a perfect postprandial sipper. And 1999 for $22? “Come on!”
And that is almost a wrap for 2024. Very shortly, watch for a last-minute Gift Guide compiled by Megha Jandhyala. And please note that, given the way the holidays fall this year, we will not be able to publish our review of Vintages January 4 release until January 9. Until then… glass half full and enjoy the season. – David
Use these quick links for access to all of our December 14th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
John’s Top Picks – December 14th
Lawrason’s Take – December 14th
Megha’s Picks – December 14th
Michael’s Mix – December 14th
Sara’s Selections – December 14th
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