Buyer’s Guide to Vintages May 10th Release
Shadowing Vintages Features and Plucking the Best Values
by David Lawrason with notes from Megha Jandhyala, Sara d’Amato and John Szabo
We begin with an apology for the 48-hour delay of this report due to travels of three of our WineAlign Crü, which pushed our tasting until May 12. John and Michael were in Sicily, and Michael is still there (and watched Mount Etna erupt Monday night). I was in the Alentejo region of southeastern Portugal. We return in a moment to both locales as they are among the hot spots for value in Europe, witnessed by some of our picks below.
First let’s shadow Vintages May 10 catalogue, which, by the way, is now only available in its print version in LCBO stores. It is no longer being mailed to the citizenry. You can read it online at here.
Sparkling wine is featured on the cover as a fitting toast to spring, with a global cross section assembled. We did not get to taste many of the bubblies (and no Champagnes), nor did we find many that were exceptional in quality or value. But an often-released stand-by from South Africa again gets a nod: a Cap Classique Brut Rosé from Graham Beck, a house that specializes in sparkling wine. I was most impressed by Mimi Brut Reserve, an unusual grenache-based sparkling rosé from Provence. Ontario delivers three decent examples from Westcott and Flat Rock Cellars of Niagara and Huff Estate of Prince Edward County.
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Prince Edward County is a sub-feature, with four wines being released. I was fortunate to taste the extraordinarily good Closson Chase 2022 Churchside Pinot Noir in February, and we are working on getting a sample for my colleagues to try. As I tasted the Lighthall 2023 Pinot Gris, with its superb linear structure, I was reminded of just what a special place The County is. Sometimes flavours go a bit awry, but the limestone-based elegance is undeniable. And by the way, a full slate of County wines is available at the Kingsway LCBO at Bloor and Royal York in Toronto. They occupy shelf space that once housed California wines.
Still local, Stratus is featured in a spread that highlights the Niagara-on-the-Lake winery’s dedication to environmentally sustainable production, going back to its opening in 2005 as Canada’s first LEED-certified building. The latest efforts are around bottles. Since the 2021 vintage they have been using bottles that are half the weight of the standard 790-gram bottles. And last year they launched the first wines in second-use bottles, a program developed by Circulr, a Guelph-based recycling innovations company. And yes, the wines being released are solid, stoic and serious. Cabernet franc is becoming a pillar of Stratus’ red wine portfolio, and Stratus White remains one the best high-end blends in the province.
Value is almost always the backbone of our recommendations in this newsletter, and top of mind for me as well. At the moment, three locales top my value chart, led by South Africa, Portugal and Sicily, and it is no coincidence that I have travelled to all three places since November. Each region has its style and strengths, but all are good value because their prices continue to be suppressed — usually for historic reasons — while quality barges ahead with the introduction of better viticulture and winemaking. I will expand on South Africa in the weeks ahead, especially around its chenin blancs.
Portugal’s new strength lies in the development of its white wines. From north to south: Vinho Verde’s vibrant alvarinhos; the solid mineral white blends from the Douro and Dao (love the encruzado grape); the arinto-based whites from more coastal Lisboa and Tejo; then the tropical whites from Alentejo based on viognier and antao vaz. Red wines continue to evolve as well, with more emphasis on balance and drinkability than tannin and ageability (see Guadalupe below). The Quadrus white and red pair from the Douro (released in April and still on shelf) are posters for the new Portugal.
Sicily is erupting with brilliant, exotic whites and reds, again based on its native grape varieties. There is no question that the surge is being led by the lighter yet complex and volcanic nerello mascalese-based reds from the north slope of Mount Etna, but elsewhere and everywhere nero d’avola based reds are much improved. And white grapes like inzolia, cataratto and grillo offer a tropical fruit salad of flavours, with the best grown at high altitude in this dramatically hilly island. In some cases, the prices are ridiculously inexpensive.
So here we go with this week’s picks, arranged in ascending price order within style groupings
Buyer’s Guide May 10th: Sparkling
Mimi Grande Réserve Brut Rosé, Provence, France
$19.95, Epic Wines & Spirits
David Lawrason – This is a rare sparkler made in the charmat method from 100% red grenache — a low acid grape that one would not expect to make sparkling. It has a pretty lifted and quite floral nose of strawberry, dried herbs/twig and white pepper. It is light bodied, dry to barely sweet with a certain softness. Chill well.
Graham Beck Méthode Cap Classique Brut Pinot Noir/Chardonnay Rosé Sparkling, South Africa
$24.95, Vinexx
Sara d’Amato – A tried-and-true value, this traditional method (aka Cap Classique) brut from pioneering South African fizz producer Graham Beck is radiant in the glass, and delivers autolytic depth and a fine, elegant mousse. A nicely balanced dosage gives approachability without taking away from the wine’s zesty attitude.
Megha Jandhyala – Well-priced, refreshing and delicious, this traditional method sparkling wine from South Africa would be a versatile addition to your bar. With its lively acidity, creamy texture, subtle sweetness and flavours of summer berries and citrus fruit, it should pair well with light seafood dishes and mildly spicy cuisine.
Westcott Brilliant Sparkling 2020, Ontario, Canada
$47.95, Westcott Vineyards
Sara d’Amato – Its creamy mousse and ginger fresh green apple palate are complemented by soft brioche notes on the palate. This blend of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier, aged “traditionally” on its lees in bottle, is developing gracefully, still with a youthful twinkle. Features a friendly dosage but with notable depth of flavour and texture.
John Szabo – Five years in, Westcott’s 2020 Brilliant is showing quite brilliantly I have to say, still holding on to significant fruit and freshness, and delivering an even-keeled raft of yeasty-toasty autolysis without leaving that fruit behind. The palate is particularly impressive, dry, savoury-sapid, balanced, and salty enough to drive desire for additional sips.
Buyer’s Guide May 10th: Rose
Malivoire Vivant Rosé 2024, Ontario, Canada
$21.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
John Szabo – 2024 is a lovely vintage for Malivoire’s Vivant rosé, one of three (still versions) made by the winery that has been a sort of rosé specialist since establishment in the mid-90s. Vivant is the middle child, before Moira and after Lady Bug (by price), a pure pinot noir with freshness and delicacy and bone-dry palate.
Buyer’s Guide May 10th: White
La Cave Du Coudray Réserve Du Chiron Muscadet Sèvre Et Maine 2023, Loire, France
$14.95, Signature Wines & Spirits Ltd.
John Szabo – Nothing but clean, crunchy, limey-citric-stony goodness, such a pleasurable wine for the money – nothing more to say, other than drink regularly, properly chilled.
Zacharias Assyrtiko 2023, Peloponnese, Greece
$18.95, Profile Wine Group (Vin Vino)
John Szabo – An assyrtiko from the Peloponnese, scarce of aromas, but the palate delivers much more: high intensity citrus-lime-green notes linger on impressively alongside a touch of ginger to spice it up. Lots of depth and flavour on offer here to be sure, and drinking well now. Superbly sharp value.
Courtois La Source Côtes Du Rhône Blanc 2023, Rhône, France
$18.95, VinoLuna
Sara d’Amato – An excellent springtime sipper that overdelivers on quality for the price, this expressive white blend of grenache blanc, marsanne, roussanne and viognier — with a moderate degree of alcohol — is bursting with personality. Intensely aromatic, it weaves together notes of pineapple, ginger, white pepper, peach blossom and pear. An exuberant, sun-kissed wine that is refreshingly unoaked and finishes with a delicate chalky minerality that lingers like a cool breeze.
Megha Jandhyala – There is so much to like in this approachable and affordable Rhône blanc. I am especially taken with its gently rounded palate, uplifting acidity and crystal-clear flavours of sweet and juicy fruit.
Jean Perrier & Fils Cuvée Gastronomie Chignin 2023, Savoie, France
$19.95, Buyers + Cellars Wine Purveyors
Megha Jandhyala – This delicious white wine from alpine Savoie, made with local grape, jacquère, offers a chance to try something off-the-trodden path. I find it has an unaffected charm, with its softly fleshy texture, delicate floral perfume and delightful flavours of stone and orchard fruit.
Bertani Sereole Soave 2023, Veneto, Italy
$19.95, Mark Anthony Group
Sara d’Amato – Another spot-on white value in this release is a garganega-based wine from Soave that offers a touch more complexity than the norm. Pure, poised and quietly compelling, it offers a shimmer of minerality and a subtle hint of sea breeze. Lemon zest, tea leaf, lemongrass and chamomile weave through the palate, lending nuance without weight.
David Lawrason – Expect a slim, brilliant Soave. The nose is very pretty with soft, delicate, floral and ripe yellow plum notes, along with linden/acacia, lemon and white almond. It is light to mid-weight, a bit soft but so elegant.
Rapitalà Vigna Casalj Alcamo Classico 2022, Sicily, Italy
$21.95, Philippe Dandurand Wines Ltd.
David Lawrason – This is an organically grown cataratto has seen some oak. The nose lifts with considerable woodsy, sappy spice, fresh herbs and apricot/sub-tropical fruit. It is medium weight with some sense of richness and warmth, and tail-end bitterness. Exotic and interesting.
Lighthall Pinot Gris 2023, Ontario, Canada
$24.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
Sara d’Amato – This silver medal winner at the 2024 National Wine Awards of Canada is back on the shelves as if it hadn’t aged a day. Subtly leesy with a whisper of spritz, this lively young gris surprises with its depth. The palate is plush yet precise, layering tart-sweet orchard fruit with toasted brioche, citrus zest and honeyed pear. Elegantly composed and effortlessly poised with a dry, memorable finish.
Wending Home Pinot Gris 2020, Ontario, Canada
$27.95, Wending Home Estate Vineyards
John Szabo – Veteran Niagara winemaker Ron Giesbrecht has crafted a pinot gris of great richness but fully dry, with uncommon weight and intensity, and ambition. A new paradigm for Ontario and very much more ‘gris’ than grigio in style.
Stratus White 2022, Niagara-On-The-Lake, Ontario
$49.20 Stratus Vineyards
David Lawrason – This is a very ripe, rich and impressive compilation of 67% chardonnay, 17% sauvignon blanc, 15% semillon and 5% viognier. It tends to the tropical with banana/pineapple custard, then suggestions of vanilla fudge, nutmeg and toast from the barrels. It is full bodied, almost creamy and warm, then grows leaner with a semillon-sauvignon green notes on the finish.
John Szabo – An aromatically rich and variegated vintage for the Stratus white; I love the texture, richly layered, smooth and silky, seamless. A top-notch wine in the end, drinking well now, but considering the track record of this wine, I know this can sail into the 2030s without concern.
Buyer’s Guide May 10th: Red
Quinta Do Quetzal Guadalupe Red 2022, Alentejo, Portugal
$13.95, Vinya Wine Agency
David Lawrason – Can’t imagine a better bargain house red! From the warmish south of Portugal, this is very well made and complete — no sweetness or goop — just authentic, ripe, complex aromas and flavours of blackcurrant, pomegranate, bay leaf, pepper and wood spices. It is medium-full bodied, balanced, fairly dense and easy drinking.
Courtois La Source Côtes Du Rhône 2022, Rhône, France
$15.95, VinoLuna
David Lawrason – This somewhat paler, lighter Côtes du Rhone blend of grenache, syrah and carignan offers a rather pretty and lifted nose of strawberry/cherry jam, pepper and dried herbs. It is medium bodied, fairly smooth and glossy. A value choice for summer enjoyment, with a light chill.
Bastide Miraflors Syrah/Vieilles Vignes Grenache 2022, Roussillon, France
$19.95, Glencairn Wine Merchants
Megha Jandhyala – At under $20, the price-to-character ratio of this classic Southern French blend is very good! It feels supple, warm and comforting, and its familiar flavour profile of garrigue, pepper, liquorice and sweet and tender red fruit conjures up charming visions of the Roussillon countryside.
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet/Shiraz/Merlot 2022, South Australia
$19.95, Mark Anthony Group
Sara d’Amato – A pleasantly floral, finely tuned blend of cabernet shiraz, malbec and merlot from Wynns’ Coonawarra Estate. Youthful and lively with notes of licorice, rosebud, black cherry and plum, lifted by firm acidity and textured tannins. A touch of oxidation along with a savoury, salty edge, add intrigue. Polished, balanced and well-priced.
Montes Alpha Carmenère 2021, Colchagua Valley, Chile
$20.95, Profile Wine Group (Vin Vino)
David Lawrason – This is textbook wine from the house that makes Purple Angel, one of Chile’s great carmenères. The experience trickles down. Classic, lifted blackcurrant jam, evergreen, jalapeno and black pepper notes are cushioned by lavish oak. It is full bodied, dense and smooth.
Perez Cruz Piedra Seca Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Maipo Valley, Chile
$22.95, Charton Hobbs
Sara d’Amato – All for less than $23, this dry-farmed cabernet sauvignon from Maipo’s “Piedra Seca” site — sourced from the oldest vines at Fundo Liguai, offers a compelling expression of place. There’s a subtle brininess on the palate, layered with graphite, dried herbs, laurel and dark berry fruit. Juicy acidity keeps it fresh, while fine tannins and well-integrated wood add polish without flash.
Tornatore Etna Rosso 2021, Sicily, Italy
$24.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
David Lawrason – Textbook Etna red from a relatively new, large and important producer. It is a pale and light bodied red that pitch perfectly transmits the red strawberry/pomegranate/cranberry fruit of the nerello grape along with herbals, vague pepper and flinty minerality. It is firm and very well balanced with some internal warmth and energy, then a dry, mineral finish.
Wending Home Syrah/Merlot 2021, Ontario, Canada
$29.95, Wending Home Estate Vineyards
John Szabo – Another terrific wine from Wending Home in this release! Fruit has abdicated in favour of a more savoury rule, while the palate is silky and refined at this stage. Sophisticated and satisfying in the end, well-composed and confident. Drink now-2031.
Stratus Cabernet Franc 2021, Ontario, Canada
$45.20, Stratus Vineyards
Megha Jandhyala – This cabernet franc from Niagara is a special wine, worth the splurge. It is concentrated, complex, structured and balanced, with fruit and herbal flavours at the perfect degree of ripeness. Still in its adolescence, it should come into its own in 2–3 years.
And that’s a wrap for this edition. We return soon with a review of Vintages May 24 release, which features outdoor entertaining and “chillable” French reds.
– David
Use these quick links for access to all of our May10th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
John’s Top Picks – May 10th
Lawrason’s Take – May 10th
Megha’s Picks – May 10th
Sara’s Selections – May 10th
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