Buyer’s Guide to Vintages June 21st Release
The “Megha” Release: Summer Whites and a Trip Around the World in Sauvignon Blanc
By Megha Jandhyala
This edition of the Buyer’s Guide is going to be a little unusual because David, John, Michael and Sara are away in British Columbia judging at the National Wine Awards of Canada (the results of the competition will soon be published on the WineAlign site). Since I am flying solo this week, you will find only my recommendations from the latest Vintages release in this article, without notes from my colleagues. Things should be back to business as usual in time for the next release, however!
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The summer solstice was on June 20th, which means that warm, sunny days are (hopefully) around the corner, along with patio parties and backyard barbeques. Apropos the weather, the theme for this Vintages release is Summery Whites, which got me thinking “what exactly is a summer wine?” When I sip on a classic Marlborough sauvignon blanc, I dream of lying in the dappled shade of a guava tree, looking up at green, just-ripe fruit — still tart, with a hint of sweetness — peeking out through its leafy canopy. A crisp, dry, stony Chablis on the other hand, reminds me of the dips I used to take in chilly springs on July trips to the mountains in Northern India. To me, both these wines are perfect for the summer! If you too have been swept up in a sunny reverie whilst drinking a special wine, perhaps that represents a summer wine to you.
Fond associations with midsummer memories and wine’s evocative power notwithstanding, are there any objective factors that make certain wines better suited to warm weather? Broadly, I would say “yes.” Wines with higher acidity, lower alcohol and fresh, tart fruit flavours taste especially appealing as temperatures and humidity rise. Research suggests that because acidity makes us salivate, tart, high acid drinks create the impression of greater hydration. Meanwhile, lower alcohol wines produce less heat on the palate than higher alcohol ones.
It also helps that wines of this style are meant to be served chilled, at around 7–10°C. One could of course serve any wine at a low temperature, but lighter, crisper white wines shine when they are chilled. In contrast, many other styles of wine will not fare so well when cooled to this degree. Heavier reds, for instance, are likely to taste thin and astringent, in other words, unpleasant, when served at similar temperatures.
Returning to the subjective, I find that when the air feels hot and oppressive, the sensation of lightness on one’s palate created by high acid, low alcohol wines can be figuratively uplifting. For all these reasons, from the scientific to the sentimental, now is as good a time as any to try new “summery” white wines or return to old favourites.
The Rhône in White event organized in downtown Toronto last week offered an opportunity to do both. It featured white wines from the Rhône valley, a region better-known for its reds. I tasted several standout examples that highlighted the diversity of the region. Some were light and crisp; others were richer and rounder. There was unity in this heterogeneity, however, a thematic undercurrent that flowed through the wines — they all tended to showcase some fleshiness on the palate, and citrusy, botanical flavours, ending on a bitter, almost tonic-like note. If these characteristics appeal to you, I urge you to try more whites from the region, should the opportunity present itself. For instance, Famille Perrin’s 2023 Réserve Côtes du Blanc, which is part of the current Vintages release, represents these classic white Rhône traits admirably.
Speaking of the June 21 Vintages release, it also includes several delicious sauvignon blancs. What is particularly exciting is that these wines come from different parts of the world, vividly representing the distinctive ways in which the variety can express itself in different terroirs. Unsurprisingly, there is an excellent example from Marlborough in New Zealand but several of my favourites are from regions less well-known for making sauvignon blanc, including the coastal Leyda Valley in Chile, Cape South Coast in South Africa, and, much closer to home, the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia.
Before I introduce you to my recommendations, I would be remiss not to mention that light and juicy reds made from varieties like pinot noir, gamay and zweigelt can be as delightful a choice for the summer as any white wine. Refreshing, lightly tannic, and usually displaying fresh red fruit flavours, they are also likely to pair well with barbequed foods. Just remember to enjoy them lightly chilled (in the ballpark of 10–13°C). The 2023 Bisquertt Crazy Rows País is a case in point. Read more about it and my other recommendations from the June 21 release below.
Buyer’s Guide June 21st: White
Famille Perrin Réserve Côtes Du Rhône Blanc 2023, Rhône, France
$17.95, Charton Hobbs
Megha Jandhyala – Notes of lime zest, oranges, apples, and apricots come together harmoniously, alongside a hint of salinity in this quintessential white Rhône, followed by a characteristic note of bitterness that reminds me of tonic water and citrus peel. The allure of this wine is as much in its texture as its flavours — its gentle viscosity supported by refreshing acidity.
Ahi Ka Blackmore Grower Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Marlborough, New Zealand
$21.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
Megha Jandhyala – This sauvignon blanc is concentrated, piquant even, with compelling flavours of herbs and citrus and tropical fruit. Subtle sweetness and roundness are balanced by vibrant acidity and a delightfully energetic, citrus leaf-infused, faintly saline finish. This is a versatile wine that should pair well with lots of foods including white fish and spice-infused cuisine.
Santa Rita Medalla Real Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Leyda Valley, Chile
$18.95, ICON FINE WINE AND SPIRITS (Select Wine Merchants)
Megha Jandhyala – This, too, is a wine of intriguing texture — creamy at first, the palate is enlivened by acidity, while the finish is finely textured and grippy. Flavours of crunchy orchard fruit, ripe citrus fruit and freshly cut grass reveal its cool coastal origins.
Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Hemel-en-Aarde, South Africa
$24.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Megha Jandhyala – Made by highly regarded South African producer Hamilton Russel, this is the most elegant of the sauvignon blancs in this release. It is nuanced and focused, striking an impeccable balance between concentration and restraint, with a dewdrop-like freshness and purity that is very appealing.
Mission Hill Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2023, British Columbia, Canada
$26.95, Mark Anthony Group
Megha Jandhyala – Bright and expressive but also composed and self-assured, this Okanagan sauvignon blanc is gently grassy and chock full of fresh citrus fruit flavours, while a hint of salinity and citrus zest linger on the long finish.
Cantine Povero Campo Del Palio Moscato D’asti 2023, Piedmont, Italy
$16.95, Rare Earth Wines
Megha Jandhyala – This is a delightfully aromatic, mildly fizzy, sweet wine with an especially low alcohol level. Sweet stone fruit and honeysuckle blossoms contribute to its vivid flavour profile, while lively acidity lifts and supports the palate. I would serve this light sparkling wine well chilled, alongside sweet treats.
Buyer’s Guide June 21st: Reds
Bisquertt Crazy Rows País 2023, Chile
$16.95, Woodman Wines & Spirits
Megha Jandhyala – Here is a chance to taste an off-the-beaten-track red wine. This país draws one in with easy, unaffected charm and animated flavours of red fruit and a hint of blood orange. Cheerful and engaging, light and refreshing, it is best enjoyed lightly chilled.
Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, South Australia
$44.95, Mark Anthony Group
Megha Jandhyala – Made with top-quality fruit, this cabernet sauvignon is potent and poised, concentrated and complex, displaying classic Coonawarra character including dark fruit, eucalyptus, violets and barrel spice. It is ready to enjoy but can be cellared for another 5–6 years.
That’s all from me today! I hope you have a fantastic summer!
– Megha
Use these quick links for access to all of our June 21st Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
Megha’s Picks – June 21th
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