Buyer’s Guide to Vintages November 22nd Release

A World of Excellent Wines, including England

Buyer’s Guide to Vintages November 22 Release
by David Lawrason with notes from John Szabo, Michael Godel and Megha Jandhyala

Vintages November 22 catalogue features 29 gifting wines, without any apparent rationale for their selection other than to cover off a gamut of styles, origins and price points that will surely please someone somewhere. Our picks this week follow the same pattern of diversity but — trust us — we have found some beauties, and I am not going to delay for very long in getting right into the action. There is a world of good wines to consider this time, with the average quality and price points bumped up for the holidays. I wish it were Christmas at Vintages all year long (but hold those carols).

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The one shiny new ornament on this release is a set of four sparkling wines from England, of which we tasted two. It’s a bit difficult to recommend them on value but they are excellent quality – Chapel Down Kit’s Coty Blancs De Blancs 2019 and Balfour 1503 Classic Cuvee Sparkling.

The southeast counties of England — Kent, Sussex, Hampshire and Surrey — are most suitable for bubbly. They straddle 50 to 51 degrees of latitude, which historically was just above the northern limit for vinifera varieties winter survival. (Across the English Channel on a similar limestone shelf lies Champagne at 49 degrees.) But climate change is making that band more elastic. The modern-era industry in the U.K., which is based on the Champagne grapes of chardonnay, pinot noir, meunier, started up in the mid 1990s and has now reached 100 wineries. Champagne’s Taittinger planted a vineyard and is releasing a wine next year.

It was informative to taste the Brit bubblies amid several Canadian sparklers, which are much better value — particularly Benjamin Bridge Methode Classique Brut Sparkling from Nova Scotia (latitude 47), and Kew Vineyards Tradition 2020 from Niagara (latitude 43.5), both at $32.95 (see note below). The most expensive Niagara sparkling here is the consistently stellar Henry-of-Pelham Cuvee Catharine Carte Blanche Estate Blanc de Blancs 2017 at $49.95, which is flagged by Megha below. I would purchase this wine ahead of any Champagne of similar price at the drop of a hat. But let’s park this subject for now because the WineAlign Crü is sitting down this week to taste dozens of sparkling wines for John Szabo’s annual Fizz Guide. Coming very soon!

Elsewhere, within almost every regional category, there are some lovely wines. I was enamoured by the boffo Australians and some classic Italians from the Valpolicella zone. But as John said when sending his selections, “it was hard to whittle them down.” We present them below in ascending price order. Shop on!

Buyer’s Guide Vintages November 22: Sparkling

Graham Beck Méthode Cap Classique Brut Pinot Noir/Chardonnay Rosé Sparkling, South Africa
$24.95, Vinexx
Megha Jandhyala – Cheerfully fruity and simply delicious, this sparkling rosé promises to be a crowd favourite at holiday parties. I recommend serving it as an aperitif or paired with light seafood dishes and mildly spicy cuisine.

Benjamin Bridge Méthode Classique Brut Sparkling, Nova Scotia, Canada
$32.95, Lifford Wine & Spirits (Select Wine Merchants)
David Lawrason – This bargain blend of chardonnay and high acid L’Acadie blanc includes some older reserve wines. It pours quite deep yellow gold and delivers more aromatic, almost honeyed, richness. It is light to medium bodied with a hint of sweetness, but a dry finish. Not as layered, elegant or deep as the higher-end wines from the sparkling specialist but the flavour intensity is surprising for the weight.

Kew Vineyards Tradition 2020, Ontario, Canada
$32.95, Arterra Wines Canada
Michael Godel – My goodness what top level mastery of assemblage and traditional fizz winemaking. Bravo to the team for gifting a luxe and focused bubble this holiday season.
Megha Jandhyala – Complex, concentrated and refreshing, this is a well-priced traditional-method sparkling wine. I like the crisp orchard and citrus fruit flavours and delicate nutty and toasty undertones.

Henry Of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Carte Blanche Estate Blanc De Blancs 2017, Ontario, Canada
$49.95, Henry Of Pelham Family Estate Winery
Megha Jandhyala – Made with chardonnay harvested from Henry of Pelham’s oldest and best vineyards, this is an exceptional blanc de blancs. I am struck by its complexity and concentration, as well as the elegant symmetry it embodies. I recommend pouring this wine blind next to Champagne for a fun tasting exercise with friends!

Buyer’s Guide Vintages November 22: White

Alpha Estate Turtles Single Vineyard Malagouzia 2024, Greece
$19.95, Kolonaki Group Inc
John Szabo – “Grape-adjacent” is an expression I picked up last week in the United States from sommeliers attempting to describe obscure grapes by comparing them to well-known ones, encouraging people to try something new by making it seem familiar. In that spirit, I find this excellent malagouzia from winemaker Angelos Iatridis to be “sauvignon blanc adjacent,” with its mix of ripe citrus and green tropical fruit. A beauty well worth discovering in any case.

Paddy Borthwick Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Wairarapa, New Zealand
$20.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
Michael Godel – Great energy and vitality from affable Paddy Borthwick’s sauvignon blanc. A quenching savvy for when you need refreshment.

Torbreck Woodcutter’s Semillon 2024, South Australia
$29.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
David Lawrason – This pours pale, low-key silver green, but there is nothing low key about the wine. It blasts classic Aussie semillon green fig, lime, green tobacco and nettle aromas. It is medium weight (13% ABV), firm, slender but solid, and almost racy. Love the tension!

Domaine Louis Moreau Chablis 2023, Burgundy, France
$35.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
John Szabo – Moreau has knocked it out of the park in 2023. I mean, this textbook example would sit comfortably alongside premier cru Chablis. It’s an ever-rarer steal from the region, and Burgundy more generally. I’d be buying this by the case.
Megha Jandhyala – This is textbook Chablis at a reasonable price — an increasingly rare phenomenon! It is gently toasty, with refreshing notes of wet chalk, and dense, tart fruit flavours. The finish is especially long, delicate and engaging.

Culmina Decora Margaret’s Bench Vineyard Riesling 2021, British Columbia, Canada
$36.95, Arterra Wines Canada
David Lawrason – This is from the Golden Mile Bench in the South Okanagan, but because this vineyard — one of the highest in the valley — lies above the appellation boundary it must default to an Okanagan Valley appellation. It has a ripe, mature nose of apricot, petrol, honey and spice — very evocative and appealing to riesling fans. Considerable power and flavour intensity, yet there is poise here.
John Szabo – Top-notch estate-grown riesling here from Culmina’s Golden Mile Bench vineyards in the south Okanagan. It’s a wild ride spanning multiple spectrums and categories of flavour, with the high degree of sapidity that separates the very good from the good. Best from now to 2031.
Michael Godel – Some age has already brought about the savoury honeyed effect, like Hunter Valley semillon or high-elevation carricante from L’Etna. But this is the Okanagan, and riesling gets no more amazing than this.

Buyer’s Guide Vintages November 22: Red

Rémy Ferbras Terre De Mistral Plan De Dieu Côtes Du Rhône Villages 2023, Rhône, France
$17.95, Dbino Inc.
John Szabo – Here’s your house party wine for the holidays, a highly satisfying southern Rhône red with wide appeal thanks to plush texture and sweet, ripe fruit flavours. Your guests might linger longer than hoped for to have another glass or two.
David Lawrason – This is a lovely blend of 70% grenache, 20% syrah, 5% cinsault and 5% mourvedre, made without oak ageing. Expect pretty violet, red plum jam, raspberry, fine pepper and dried herbs There is elegance and energy not often encountered in Rhone reds at this price.
Michael Godel – Uncomplicated red wine with warming ease and plenty of fruit stuffing to make it work. The wine in your glass is proper and real which makes this price more than irresistible.

Boutari Naoussa Xinomavro 2022, Naoussa, Greece
$19.95, Kolonaki Group Inc
John Szabo – Such terrific value in a “nebbiolo-adjacent” wine from northern Greece’s great xinomavro grape. And while drinking well now, given the track record of this wine — I’ve had vintages back to the 1990s — I know it will deliver even more complexity and pleasure in 2–3 years and hold into the early 2030s without concern.

Yalumba Samuel’s Collection Bush Vine Grenache 2023, South Australia, Australia
$21.95, Family Wine Merchants
Michael Godel – Not just the way this old-vine grenache delivers the juiciest and full-flavoured of varietal expressions, but in how that happens. An undercurrent of crunchy currant and mineral, everything on abundant repeat.
Megha Jandhyala – This is a delightfully tender and succulent old-vine grenache, with limpid flavours of red fruit, black pepper and savoury herbs. That it represents such good value only adds to its ample charm.

Tornatore Etna Rosso 2022, Sicily, Italy
$24.95, Nicholas Pearce Wines Inc.
John Szabo – A first-class value, I have to say. A perfect entry point to exploring the wines of the volcano at a very attractive price — indeed, at twice the price, I would think it’s fair. Drink or hold 2–4 years. A terrific vintage from Tornatore.
David Lawrason – Totally aligned.

Escarpment “Noir” Martinborough Pinot Noir 2023, Martinborough, New Zealand
$29.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
John Szabo – Don’t be deceived by the pale red colour: this pinot is packed with flavour and structure, a wine of genuine intensity, and serious juice indeed for Escarpment’s “entry level.” It’s dark and savoury in the Martinborough style, and I would give it another year or two to knit together.
David Lawrason – This pale pinot delivers way above its appearance, with intense flavours of classic sour cherry/rhubarb pie, all kinds of toast, clove spice and fresh herbs. It is medium weight, very smooth and glossy and warming (13.5%). Flavour intensity is the key here.

Kilikanoon Baudinet Blend Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro 2021, South Australia, Australia
$34.95, Charton Hobbs
David Lawrason – This was awarded the Australian Clare Valley Red Blend Trophy, receiving a top score of 96 points. Gotta say, I am on board here. Very impressive and intense, with a wild nose of blackcurrant, cranberry, fresh mint, licorice and pepper. It is full bodied, dense, smooth and sweet-edged, yet well proportioned, with flavours piling on. Oomph and awe.

El Coto De Imaz Gran Reserva 2018, Rioja, Spain
$34.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
David Lawrason – This is a firm, finely structured and reserved Rioja that could easily age another decade. Having said that, it has its appeal now, with a very fine nose of raspberry/plum, meshed with cedary wood, some resin, wet stone and tobacco. It is medium-full bodied, quite well proportioned and elegant. Patience required.
Megha Jandhyala – This seven-year-old gran reserva is a vivid kaleidoscope of flavours, ranging from vibrant fruit to toasted coconut, leather, tobacco and spice. At under $35, I would buy a case of this classic Rioja for my cellar and open a bottle ever year for the next decade, exploring how it evolves over time!

Domaine Bourgogne Devaux Le Clou Hautes Côtes De Beaune 2022, Burgundy, France
$44.95, Glencairn Wine Merchants
Michael Godel – The Hautes-Côtes is still unheralded for the high-quality wines they truly can be from top Beaune (and Nuits) sites. This 2022 drinks with poise, and maturity will be kept at bay for a minimum three years.
David Lawrason – Such an affordable genuine Burgundy surprise. It shows ripe dark fruit — black cherry/raspberry, with all kinds of violet, evergreen and spicy (almost peppery) complexity. It is medium bodied, elegant and energized. Gutsy Burgundy at half the price of the crus.

Château Beau Site 2018, Bordeaux, France
$52.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
David Lawrason – This is approaching prime at seven years. One bottle showed TCA, but another was fine and inquiries with Vintages consultants suggest other bottles were fine as well. A very immediate and complex nose with classic cabernet-based cedar, ferrous St. Estèphe minerality, blackcurrant, spice and fresh herbs. It is medium-full bodied with perfect acidity and finely woven alcohol and tannin. Drink or cellar another five years.

Tenuta Argentiera Villa Donoratico Bolgheri Rosso Doc 2022, Tuscany, Italy
$59.95, Profile Wine Group (Du Chasse)
John Szabo – An exceptional Bordeaux-style red from the Tuscan coast, polished and composed, which defies the stresses of the vintage and comes out on top. The palate is suffused with black fruit and impressive succulence, finding balance on a large, ripe frame. I’d suggest another 2–4 years in the cellar to invite further integration and complexity. It will emerge as a beauty.

Le Ragose Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Reserva 2013, Veneto, Italy
$101.95, Carpe Vinum International
John Szabo – Here’s the big bottle to gift to that special wine-loving friend or colleague, a voluptuous, broad, silky and flat-out beautiful expression of Amarone with class and pedigree. The bonus is the age; at 12 years in, it’s starting to drink now and could be enjoyed this holiday season. But of course, there’s no rush — this will be comfortable in the cellar into the early 2040s.

And that’s a wrap for this edition. We return to cover the December 6 release featuring more premium wines, and Spain’s Ribera del Duero. We also have a very busy December tasting and publishing schedule with newsletters featuring Austria, Artisan Ciders and, of course, the Fizz Guide. Don’t change the channel. – David Lawrason

Use these quick links for access to all of our November 22nd Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 60 days prior.

John’s Top Picks – November 22nd
Lawrason’s Take – November 22nd
Michael’s Mix – November 22nd
Megha’s Picks – November 22nd

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