Buyer’s Guide to Vintages March 15th Release

U.S.A. Out, Canada In – Ontario Wineries Need to Be Nimble!
by David Lawrason, with reviews by Sara d’Amato and Megha Jandhyala

The Vintages catalogue for the March 15th release lists 15 American wines that are, of course, not available. The LCBO could not pivot quickly enough on the news March 2nd that U.S. wines were being pulled from the shelves. It is fair to criticize the LCBO for not being a nimble organization overall, but let’s not be mean on this one circumstance. These releases are planned months ahead of time.

What is opportune is the release of one of the largest and most diverse selections of Ontario wines (17) in recent memory. Again, this is not a result of nimble thinking around current politics — yet the timing is really good. And so is the selection.

There are top wines by Bachelder, Le Clos Jordanne and Hidden Bench, plus solid efforts from Peller Estates, Trius and Thirty Bench, plus some less well-known properties like Liebling (new), Organized Crime (under-sung), Featherstone and Fielding (constantly mid-price reliable). We highlight some of our picks in an Ontario section below.

This moment is indeed golden for Ontario wine. With U.S.A. out, there is literally all kinds of shelf space at the LCBO, and individual LCBO stores have the ability to phone up Ontario wineries and order wine directly to fill it. “My” local flagship store at Bloor and Royal York in Etobicoke has independently ordered 40 Ontario wines that are not part of the regular listing process. It has focused on some top-notch Niagara and Prince Edward County chardonnays and pinot noirs (Ontario’s strength) and put them on pour at the tasting bar. That’s nimble! But how many other LCBOs have done this?

Only 2 cases left for March delivery. Exchange cases contain no American wines.

And I am sorry to be a downer, but this is still no guarantee that Ontarians will buy them, despite the current nationalistic fervour. One of the constants of my long career as a wine observer based in Toronto, is the deeply ingrained resistance of Toronto consumers (in particular) to Ontario wine. Ottawa and Kingston are much more supportive. A product consultant at this same store related an incident where a shopper sampled and enjoyed a wine served blind and asked what it was. “Niagara Chardonnay,” the consultant said. “I don’t drink Ontario wine,” came the reply.

I have heard this stupid bias ad nauseum for years. It’s partially generational, where folks of a certain age remember that bad old days. But also, a thing where people are crippled by their insecurity around wine and unable to trust their own preferences. Denigrating Ontario wine is still too socially acceptable!

More basically, it is about not liking acid in wine, an age-old, new wine consumer thing that drives many to riper California. I went through it too decades ago when I started my journey. Ontario wine has acid and that makes it wonderful. But it is definitely not California, and I find recent writings about finding Ontario wines that come close to California to be pandering and a bit dishonest, if well meaning.

Ontario wineries need to ignore the wino-saurs, and go out and find the new open-minded consumers, and explain what they are making and why (stylistically and climatically). They need to nimbly do a full court press on LCBOs flagship stores with larger Vintages sections. More immediately they need to nimbly storm the private bottle shops sprouting across the province that are not tied to the LCBO’s wholesale selections — these businesses can buy direct, are nimble themselves, and reach and educating, inquisitive consumers.

If Ontario wineries are not doing this, at this very juicy moment in time, why aren’t they? Perhaps some are still tragically hipped to century-old LCBO inter-dependency. A model that — like Hudson’s Bay — is on the way out too. Let it go, and let’s go!

Italy and South Africa

Again, because of decisions taken many months ago Italy is the feature of this release, and there are some very good buys (see below), especially from Sicily. And South Africa gets a nod with a mini-three wine focus on its epi-centre wine region, Stellenbosch. The Cape is making so many stunning, underpriced and underappreciated wines. My number one for value at all price points in the world today.

I want to end with a short, uplifting story about South African Tesselaarsdal Chardonnay and Pinot Noir being released in tiny quantities at Flagship stores, that may very well be sold out by now. If you spy them, grab them. They are superb wines, although at over $50, many will pass. It is a virtual label by Bernie Sauls. Years ago she was hired as a nanny for the three daughters of winemakers Anthony and Victoria Hamilton-Russell. She moved into the business and became the office manager, then began to take an interest in winemaking. In 2015 the Hamilton-Russells funded her first solo label, and it has gone to receive critical acclaim. She had been buying fruit from the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge region, but has now also planted the first vineyard, and created jobs, in her home community of Tesselaarsdal. There can be heart in wine.

Here are our picks from the March 15 Release, starting with Ontario wines, then the imports, arranged in ascending price order within each selection. Michael and John were travelling during this cycle.

Buyer’s Guide March 15th: Ontario Wines

Liebling Andrews Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2022, Ontario, Canada
$22.00, Marynissen Estates Limited
David Lawrason – From the Oppenlaender grape growing family, made by daughter Jessie within the Colab project at Marynissen, this is a spry, lifted and very fresh early harvested sauvignon with all kinds of grapefruit, gooseberry, grass and fresh dill. At 12.5% alcohol it weighs in light but delivers immediate flavour intensity and crunchy texture.

Hidden Bench Estate Riesling 2020, Ontario, Canada
$24.95, Mark Anthony Group
David Lawrason – Huge value here. This sports wonderful lift, purity and precision, with ripe pear/melon fruit, subtle petrol and a lovely spice I often get from older vine Niagara rieslings. It’s mid-weight, just off-dry with fine and lime acidity and a typical Beamsville Bench mineral finish.

The Organized Crime Break In Pinot Noir 2021, Ontario, Canada
$24.95, Rogers & Company
David Lawrason – From one of the most underrated and unfortunately named wineries in Niagara, at least since winemaker Greg Yemen took the reins, this is a classic Beamsville Bench pinot with fragrant cran-cherry, red rose, fine herbs, forest floor and spice. It is light to mid-weight, slim and tart-edged with fine drying tannin and Beamsville minerality.

Fielding Cabernet Franc 2022, Ontario, Canada
$26.15, Epic Wines & Spirits
Sara d’Amato – Slowly unveiling itself, this well-structured cabernet franc delivers perfectly ripened fruit with a mix of primary and bottle-age flavours. A recent tasting reaffirmed its status as a gold medal winner at last year’s National Wine Awards of Canada

Le Clos Jordanne Jordan Village Chardonnay 2021, Ontario, Canada
$30.00, Arterra Wines Canada
David Lawrason – This is offering a lot of complexity and structure for $30. I really like the custard, hazelnut, yellow apple/pear and nutmeg barrel spice. It is quite full bodied and rich with satiny/creamy texture, considerable warmth. Both obvious and delicate at the same time.

Bachelder Wismer Parke Pinot Noir 2022, Ontario, Canada

520379, Bachelder Wismer Parke Pinot Noir 2022, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment
$60.00, Lifford Wines & Spirits (Select Wine Merchants)
Megha Jandhyala – Thomas Bachelder’s 2022 Wismer Parke pinot noir is a bewitching coalescence of delicate floral notes, supple red fruit, and savoury herbal character. I am also impressed with how long this profusion of flavour lingers on the finish. I recommend splurging on a bottle of this pinot noir because it is exquisite, but as a bonus, you will be supporting an Ontario winery!

Buyer’s Guide March 15th: Imported Whites & Sparkling

Michalakis Assyrtiko Dry White 2023, Crete, Greece
$15.95, Vergina Import International
Megha Jandhyala – Here is a delicious assyrtiko from Crete (as opposed to Santorini), supple and succulent, with aromas of lemon blossom, crunchy green apples, and wet stones, alongside a hint of spice. I love the freshness here, the crisp acidity, and the cheerful finish.

Planeta La Segreta Grillo 2023, Sicily, Italy
$19.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
Megha Jandhyala – Planeta’s organically produced La Segreta will please lovers of grillo and those new to this Sicilian white variety. It is refreshing and fruit forward, with bright, engaging flavours. What I like most about it, though, is its texture — a gentle, alluring fleshiness is supported by lively, uplifting acidity. (Sidenote: One of Planeta’s vineyards was featured on the second season of the television series, White Lotus.)
David Lawrason – This arrives in what appears to be a smaller, thicker bottle, but it still actually holds the standard 750 ml. The grillo grape is on a roll in Sicily, delivering very ripe, almost tropical whites redolent of fresh fig, pineapple and banana. This is a very fine, pristine and exacting example from a leading estate.
Sara d’Amato – If you’re finally unearthing your Christmas lights from beneath the last remnants of snow, you might be thinking, Spring can’t come soon enough! For those of you who can’t wait any longer, this Grillo is springtime incarnate. Crisp and vibrant, it’s brimming with pear, thistle, lavender and honeysuckle, while its salty, high-acid zing will have you feeling like you’ve just stepped into a sun-drenched garden. It’s the seasonal refresh you’ve been craving — no blooming flowers required.

Dr. Heidemanns Bergweiler Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 2022, Mosel, Germany
$22.95, Glencairn Wine Merchants
David Lawrason – Beautifully rendered, very ripe Mosel riesling that drinks more like a spätlese than kabinett. It is medium sweet but riding a great seam of Mosel acidity and minerality. The nose is in bloom — so floral (linden) with peach flan, honey and lemon. It is medium weight but only 9.5% ABV, so residual sugar is adding some flesh
Megha Jandhyala – This is classic Mosel riesling — acidity and sweetness are in perfect harmony, while the flavour profile is concentrated with notes of citrus, orchard and stone fruit. I would pair this with sweet and spicy foods like paneer makhani or a selection of creamy cheeses.

Aganis Di Flabe Ribolla Gialla 2023, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
$22.95, Rare Earth Wines
David Lawrason – Try something different. This is an exotic white from Ribolla Gialla, a local variety that thrives in the hill country of northeast Italy — one of my favourite white wine regions on the planet. The nose is lifted and ripe with yellow raisin/plum, citrus marmalade and fresh mint. It is medium-full bodied, quite rich and warm, with fine acidity leaving a clean, almost mineral finish.
Sara d’Amato – Ribolla gialla, the rising star from Friuli, is quickly winning over connoisseurs and newcomers. From the brink of extinction (due to phylloxera) to a more recent revival, this vibrant variety is gaining momentum due to its enticing floral notes, juicy peachy profile, high acids, and a pleasant loftiness — all evident in this notable example. Generous but elegant, oak-free with a delicate leesy presence and a salty minerality.

Kutjevo Maximo Brut Sparkling 2020, Croatia
$29.95, Croatia Unpacked
Sara d’Amato – Croatian wine has set the bar high — both in quality and price — but this new gem on the market is here to keep your wallet happy without skimping on the taste. Made in the traditional method style, it’s crafted from local grasevina grapes with a touch of late-harvest dosage. On the dry side but not austere, it’s got a zesty, mineral edge, balanced by a frothy mouthful of tree-fruit goodness.

Buyer’s Guide March 15th: Imported Reds

Flor De Maio Mayflower 2021, Alentejo, Portugal
$15.95, Rare Earth Wines
Sara d’Amato – Always a solid pick, this breezy bottle is made from a blend of trincadeira and aragonez (aka tempranillo). Expressive with a succulent, red-fruited palate bursting with peppery raspberry, complemented by supple tannins, and a ready-to-drink character.

Gorghi Tondi Coste A Preola Nero D’avola 2022, Sicily, Italy
$17.95, Rare Earth Wines
Megha Jandhyala – Not only is this nero d’avola value priced at under $20, it is also pleasantly supple and balanced, with a spring in its step that I find appealing. Tasting it feels like biting into fleshy red fruit and the finish is comfortingly warm.
David Lawrason – This is a delicious, rather soft and flavourful nero, capturing the cranberry-cherry essence of the variety with peony florals, fresh herbs and oak spice. It is medium weight, loose and smooth with some heat.
Sara d’Amato – A stylish, casually intricate, youthful Sicilian nero d’avola brimming with fruit-derived spice and mineral. Sapid and botanical with a juicy and dynamic flavour profile. Effortlessly sophisticated.

Château Saint Roch Chimères Grenache/Carignan/Syrah Côtes Du Roussillon Villages 2022, Midi, France
$19.95, Glencairn Wine Merchants
Megha Jandhyala – This is a quintessential red blend from Roussillon — I love the aromas of sunbaked earth, blueberries, dark cherries, lightly poached red berries and garrigue, and the hint of meatiness. Warm, lush, and cozy, with an appealingly herbal finish.

Alejandro Fernández Dehesa La Granja 2018, Castilla y León, Spain
$22.95, Noble Estates Wines & Spirits Inc.
David Lawrason – This is a classic 100% tempranillo aged 12 months in American oak, which generates a resinous, cedary and spicy sheen. There is also pruny/dried cherry fruit. It is very smooth almost velvety, warm and generous. I thought of a Sunday roast beef dinner.

Domaine De La Marinière Vieilles Vignes Chinon 2022, Loire, France
$28.95, Boires Canada
David Lawrason – This organically grown 100% cabernet franc reveals surprising colour depth and extraction. The nose beautifully ripe with classic raspberry, violet, very fine herbs, subtle vanillin and spice. It is medium weight with perfectly bound acid/alcohol and firm but fine, youthful tannin.
Megha Jandhyala – This is an intriguing Chinon, circumspect, yet inviting. I like the interplay between savoury character and tart red fruit here, the faint earthy/pastoral notes, hints of spice, and subtle impression of salinity.

Barone Ricasoli Brolio Bettino Chianti Classico 2021, Tuscany, Italy
$27.95, The Case For Wine
David Lawrason – From an historic and reliable producer, this is a well-structured, classy, exacting and complex Chianti to enjoy now or cellar through 2029. It has a very complex nose of coffee bean, rosemary, caper, cran-raspberry and spice. It is medium weight, quite vibrant yet sophisticated.

Niepoort Vertente Tinto Douro 2020, Douro, Portugal
$30.95, Le Sommelier Inc.
Megha Jandhyala – From stalwart produce Niepoort, comes this graceful yet dense red blend. Just the right proportions of spices and colourful fruit come together in solidarity here, while a delicate stony-salty character adds to its appeal. This is a quality wine from the Douro, ready to enjoy now, that should evoke interest should you bring it with you to a spring soirée or dinner party.
Sara d’Amato – A small splurge with a big payoff, this captivating red blend is sourced from old-vine tinta roriz, touriga franca, rufete and tinta amarela. It was spontaneously fermented and aged in French oak. While Niepoort built its reputation on Port, visionary winemaker Dirk Niepoort began building a legacy of still, dry wine in the 1990s, setting the stage for this innovative approach. Herein the result is a low-interventionist gem that’s rich but not overwhelming, with velvety ripe tannins, plentiful fresh fruit, and a comforting oak-spiced finish.
David Lawrason – From one of the leading wineries of Portugal, this is a beauty, with lifted jammy mulberry/raspberry fruit, fine oak spice, granitic minerality and subtle underbrush notes. It is medium-full bodied, intensely flavoured, fairly supple yet energized, with dusty tannin.

That’s a wrap for this edition.
Glass still half full.
– David

Use these quick links for access to all of our March 15th Top Picks in the New Release. Non-premium members can select from all release dates 30 days prior.
Lawrason’s Take – March 15th
Megha’s Picks – March 15th
Sara’s Selections – March 15th

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